Day 1. Thursday 30th September.
The morning started with a beautiful sunrise water taxi transfer on the Grand Canal to Venice Airport. It was definitely a great way to say goodbye to Venice and begin our journey to Positano. Our flight with Easy Jet Airlines to Naples Airport was good and the price reasonable compared to other European Airlines. We paid $239.68 Eur / $349.49 Aud for 2 adults one way.
On our arrival to Naples Airport, we had a private car hire driver waiting for us that we booked with Gianluca Savarese and also booked a return pick up to Naples through the same company. We also arranged a 2 hour Pompeii tour with Gianluca Savarese who had a tour guide waiting for us at the Pompeii ruins on our way to Positano. Our driver also took care of our luggage whilst we visited the ruins. The return car hire service including the stop to Pompeii cost $230 Eur / $332.48 Aud, this price was catered for our particular journey therefore keep in mind depending where you are going on the Amalfi Coast could make the price less or more. Gianluca Savarese were accomodating and provided excellent service.
http://www.privatedaytours.com/
As you drive into the city of Pompeii you can still see the damage that happened so many centuries ago. Pompeii was buried in meters of ash after the disastrous eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D.
The 2 hour tour we personally requested was good however it is not enough time to take in all of Pompeii ruins. Pompeii was an interesting visit and was more fascinating and bigger than I had expected. Was great to see the foundations that still lay and gauge on the civilians way of life.
We strolled through the following sites –
- The Ampitheatre – Ruins of a 20,000 capacity where gladiator combats were held.
- Terme Suburbane – 1st century BC bathhouse.
- Quadriportico dei Teatri – Built in the 1st century, used for the audience to stroll between acts and later as a barracks for gladiators.
- Lupanare – Is the most famous brothel in the ruined city and has erotic paintings on its walls.
- Tempio Della Fortuna Augusta – erected this temple to Fortuna August
- Casa del Fauno – The House of the Faun, built during the 2nd century BC, was one of the largest and most impressive private residences in Pompeii.
http://www.pompeionline.net/pompeii/
At the end of the tour we paid the tour guide $180 Eur / $237.61 Aud. The tour guide was good and seemed very informative but I feel like we paid too much for a 2 hour tour. Unfortunately, I do not have his details to share as the car service booked on our behalf.
The drive from Pompeii to Positano was approximately 50 minutes. We arrived at our Palazzo Marzoli Resort at the top of Positano overlooking the valley after 3pm. We had the jacuzzi with the only verandah room in the resort, the view was breathtaking.
After a visit to the local store approximately 2 minutes walk, James and I got ready for our 6:30pm sunset cruise with Bluestar departing at Spiaggia Grande (main beach).
The walk to town is about 20 minutes, one can walk down the staircases or walk along the streets. There is no need to catch buses to town, the walk is so much nicer and good exercise too. We walked to town and took in the picturesque view and I wore flats instead of heels. Carry those heels in your bag ladies. We passed the iconic Church of Santa Maria Assunta located close to Spiaggia Grande (main beach) and headed straight to Bluestar Boat tours on the beach. The 1.5 hours sunset cruise on the “SEA LADY” speedboat cost $200 Eur / $287.53 Aud but we paid $170 Eur / $244.40 Aud for 2 persons as we were given a discount. We left Positano’s main beach enjoying a bottle of Prosecco and canapés whisking along the lovely coast and appreciated a beautiful sunset near the famous “Li Galli Islands”. It was the perfect tour and so romantic with the view of Positano and the Amalfi coast. We were so lucky to even see a dolphin. It was a wonderful way to start our evening.
http://www.bluestarpositano.it/english.htm
After our sunset cruise we dined at Chez Black by the seaside on the main beach. The atmosphere was great and my lasagna was the best I have ever had. And back in 2010, I had a delicious pizza. I recommend both dishes.
http://www.chezblack.it/index-en.php
After dinner we saw Lorenzo, an old friend from my first visit in Positano who’s family have a restaurant called Le Mediterraneo. Le Mediterraneo is definitely one of the best restaurants in Positano on Via Pasitea. A good welcoming family restaurant who’s cuisine is delicious. Lorenzo had a drink with us and we promised to come by for dinner during our short stay.
http://www.mediterraneopositano.com/index.html
Day 2. Friday 1st October.
The weather changed from sunny to very cloudy with possible rain, not the kind of weather any tourist would want in the Amalfi coast. And unfortunately our private speed boat to Capri was cancelled due to bad water conditions so we decided to enjoy our morning in Positano.
http://www.amalfiboatrental.com/
Our morning started chilling out in the Jacuzzi whilst taking in the magnificent view of the Amalfi coast. We then ventured down several stair cases to Via Fornillo where Fornillo beach (smaller beach) has a few beach restaurants. Once at the end of the Fornillo beach we stopped at the 13th century fort gates that were closed then continued our walk through Positano town and looked at a couple of shops. Before our bus trip to Amalfi we had lunch on Via Pasitea at Ristorante Saraceno D’Oro, a nice family owned restaurant which Lorenzo’s family also own. The pizza’s are great here. James and I had our own pizza each with wine and highly recommend a visit here too.
http://www.saracenodoro.it/home.htm
After lunch, we wanted to go to Amalfi however due to bad water conditions the ferry services were not operating so we caught bus 5070 in front of Bar Internazionale on Via G Marconi. The trip to Amalfi was approximately 50 minutes, we explored the town and admired the Duomo di Amalfi (Amalfi Catherdral). After a pleasant walk in the town we had coffee at Bar Savoia infront of the Piazza Flavio Gioia whilst we waited for the bus to Positano to arrive. I found the return journey hard as the bus was at full capacity and it was so dark going though winding roads nevertheless we returned to our hotel safely.
We had a dinner reservation at Rada Restaurant but due to the time we cancelled it and opted to find a restaurant later that evening. Positano was very busy this week, every restaurant we came across was booked out until we reached Da Vincenzo on Via Pasitea. The food and service were good and the restaurant was located on a corner with a view of the town. I had previously dined here and it was just a good as my other 2 visits.
Day 3. Saturday 2nd October.
We woke to the news of bad water conditions again and the only boats operating in the Amalfi coast were the ferries from Sorrento to Capri. The traffic was insane and it was hopeless waiting for a bus any longer than we had so we asked a couple we met at the bus stop if they wanted to share a taxi with us. Instead of a taxi our hotel arranged for the hotel driver to take us for $60 Eur/ $86.42 Aud. The drive to Sorrento was much more pleasant in a mini van than the bus would have been.The traffic into and out of Positano was exceptionally bad but we accepted it and just enjoyed the breathtaking view along the coast for 30 minutes.
When we arrived at the Marina Grande, the ferry service was disorganised and no one knew where to stand and passengers on the docks we were walking back and forth from one ferry bay to another. Was annoying but also funny at the same time. After a 20 minute wait we boarded the Capri ferry. The ferry to Capri was horrendous, I was literally crying and frightened the whole 30 minutes to Capri. Meanwhile James was loving every minute and thought the ferry was like some theme park ride which I personally can not do. At this point I was so grateful boats from Positano were cancelled the last 2 days but also disappointed the weather conditions were bad as we missed out on our private boat for the day from Positano to Capri including swimming, the Blue Grotto, 2 hour stop to visit Ana Capri/ Capri and exploring the coast of Capri.
Upon disembarking Capri we caught a taxi up to Ana Capri. Ana Capri is up north on the hillside where the view is astonishing. There is a chair lift service that takes you up to the top of Ana Capri. Due to being afraid of heights it took me 20 minutes to decide to join James on the chair lift. The chair lift ended up being a great experience and not at all scary. Due to not so good weather Ana Capri was engulfed in mist however it was still an amazing experience to see the Amalfi Coast up so high. An hour later, we caught a taxi back to Capri town as the bus was taking too long and we had to catch the ferry back to Sorrento at 5pm. Thankfully, the return trip back to Sorrento was not as bumpy. Trying to get a bus in the Amalfi Coast seemed difficult this trip and there appeared to be a lot more tourist then I have seen in the past. We waited for a bus at the Sita bus stop on Piazza Giovanni Battista de Curtis that just seemed to not be coming at all so we bargained with a taxi driver who approached us. The drive back to Positano took approximately 35 minutes and cost $60 Eur / $86.81 Aud. Overall, I think hiring a car might be a good idea but would you trust yourself on these winding roads with lots of traffic?!
Before dinner at Le Mediterraneo, we visited my friend Ninetta who lives on the top of Positano’s cliff with a stunning view. It was like old times such a beautiful woman who I met on my first visit to Positano at Le Mediterraneo restaurant. Unfortunately, Ninetta was babysitting and could not join us for dinner but I was so happy to see her again and introduce James to Ninetta. She also has bed and breakfast accommodation at her home and another bed and breakfast on Via del Pasitea called the Venus Inn. I have had the pleasure of being a guest at Ninetta’s home on 2 occasions. Ninetta showed James her home and the guest rooms where I stayed and after our Aperol aperitif drink and meeting Ninetta’s grandkids, we walked to the Mediterraneo. It was sad to see Ninetta so briefly but I was so thankful to have reunited.
My first accomodation in Positano was at the Royal Hotel, a nice hotel with full amenities and a great location with a stunning view.
http://www.hotelroyalpositano.it/en/
Positano is so pretty in the day but it is also gorgeous at night all light up. Lorenzo reserved us an outside table by the road, it was a great table. I love seeing all the cars and people go by. Le Mediterraneo has always been my favourite Positano restaurant for dinner, the food is amazing and people are down to earth. “Limoncello” is a common italian apertif and something you can not miss out on at Le Mediterraneo. You will always somehow have one on your table before the night is over.
http://www.mediterraneopositano.com/
After dinner Lorenzo and his friend met us at Music on the Rocks after 1am. The club is on a cliff edge terrace within steps of the ocean. It was nice to catch up with a friendly face over a few drinks. It was now 3am when we returned to our hotel knowing we had a 7am car service to Naples. I literally passed out as soon as my head hit the pillow, James on the other hand stayed up and packed.
http://www.musicontherocks.it/home.php
Day 4. Sunday 3rd October.
It was 6am when James tried to wake me up, it was very hard to wake with less than 3 hours sleep but I eventually did. Our driver was on time and drove us safely to Naples airport.
Positano is a stunning location with everlasting memorable views that will stay with you forever when you visit. It was sad to say goodbye to Positano again but we were now venturing onto a different and exciting culture, Porto Heli in Greece.
christinetravels 