Day 1. Saturday 3rd October.
It was 6am and I somehow mustered the energy to get up after 2.5 hours sleep for a 7am pick up to Naples Airport. It was great to have a return transfer back to Naples Airport especially after a late night out in Positano. We were sad to say goodbye to Positano after only 3 nights but at the same time James and I were excited to start a new adventure in another part of Europe and meet James family in Porto Heli, Greece.
The flight from Naples to Athens with Easy Jet was only 1 hour and 45 minutes, we met the driver Jame’s Aunt Trisha organised for us and Jame’s Mum Ann at Athens airport who had landed 30 minutes after us. James and I were so tired from the evening before that we unfortunately slept through the majority of the 2 hours and 30 minutes drive to Porto Heli.
Approaching Porto Heli, I could see it was a nice pretty village completely remote and away from the hustle and bustle. Before we checked into Hotel Rozos we dropped Ann at James Aunt Trisha’s place and said hello then the driver drove James and I to Hotel Rozos. We had a good room on the 1st floor with a balcony view of the Porto Heli harbour. Before sunset we walked to AB Vasilopoulos supermarket only 4 minutes away and bought water and snacks then enjoyed a stunning sunset on our balcony overlooking the Porto Heli harbour.
Apart from the small beach in Porto Heli, you will find good swimming at Ververoda Bay with clear water and perfect for kayaking too. Porto Heli has lots of restaurants and there is a beach resort called Nikki Beach Resort & Spa which did not appear to be open during our stay.
Later in the evening, we had dinner with the family at Salt and Pepper restaurant a 5 minute walk from Hotel Rozos on Epar.Od. Porto Cheli – Kosta road. Salt and Pepper was one of my favourite restaurants in Porto Heli. This small family run taverna has great authentic Greek food where you can sit inside or outside. The restaurant is also in good spot and only a 10 minute walk to the marina.
Day 2. Sunday 4th October.
Trisha, Ann, James and I caught a ferry to Spetses Island from the end of Epar.Od. Porto Cheli in Kosta village. The ferry trip was approximately 15 minutes.
Spetses is a small pretty island with a lot of history. The island was used as a provision station for ships on their way to the Peloponnese coast. This peaceful island has Byzantine churches, historic museums, horse drawn carriages, cobbled streets, antique cannons along the harbour, lots of bougainvillea on garden walls and dozens of shops and restaurants. There is also a 300 years old mansion that was the home of Boumboulina the heroine of the 1821 Greek War of Independence.
We walked around the town and explored back streets, it is so pretty with white washed homes and bougainvillea drapping along the walls. I came across a shoe shop with unique sandals and bought myself a great pair of Athenian calve length sandals but now wish I had bought 2 pairs. There are quite a few restaurants in Spetses. Trisha recommended a family run business with authentic Greek home cooked food. The food at Enathnihn Emitihu Koyzina Homemade Greek Food was delicious even the Greek yogurt with a sweet fig preserve was nice. After our delicious lunch we continued our walk to the other end of the island where we admired the Poseidonion Grand Hotel and walked past more restaurants along the seaside. While waiting for the next ferry we had coffee at a restaurant by the sea. Then instead of waiting an 1.5 hours for the next ferry Trisha and I arranged for a water taxi to take us back to Porto Heli for $20 Eur / $28.51 Aud.
After a lovely day in Spetses with the family James and I returned to Hotel Rozo to reset before dinner and watched the sunset on our balcony.
Dinner was at Alexandra restaurant in the Porto Heli Marina. The service and food were good however we were distracted by poor hungry kittens begging for food.
Day 3. Monday 5th October
Trisha surprised James and I with a full day on a beautiful yacht with her 2 friends, herself and Ann. We sailed around the Aegean sea then anchored across from Xylokeriza Beach at Spetses. Snorkelling around Xylokeriza Beach is superb there were a lot of sea life. It was such an amazing day sailing on the Aegean sea with perfect weather.
Trisha’s friends also arranged a lovely lunch for us on the front of the yacht. We spent the afternoon sunbathing whilst sailing along the Aegean sea and taking in the beautiful Peloponnese coastline. Sailing on this amazing yacht was spectacular and I truly felt spoilt. It was a fun day and a memory I will never forget.
After a lovely day in the ocean we returned to Ververoda Bay and spent some time with the family and watched Trisha take a client out water skiing.
We ended the evening with dinner at Salt and Pepper again which is also Trisha’s husbands favourite restaurant. Gotta love a good home cook meal.
Day 4. Tuesday 6th October.
Mid morning Trisha drove us to Naphlion which is a gorgeous village on the eastern Peloponnese coast approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes drive. Naphlion is one of the prettiest villages on the eastern coastline that we came across. The village has ancient walls, medieval castles, monuments and statues.
Our day in Naphlion started with a coffee in Syntagma Square where we admired historic buildings and monuments then walked through the cobbled streets and admired the shops on our way to the Palamidi Castle. The Palamidi Castle has a total of 999 steps and if you are brave enough to climb like James and I it is worth it otherwise there is car access and plenty of parking available. The entry fee is $4 Eur / $5.71 Aud per person. The castle was initially built by the Venetians who occupied the village in 1686–1715. The panoramic view is impressive and a great location for photography. You definitely will not be disappointed if you walked up the 999 steps. Plus you get a great view of the Bourtzi fort that was also built by the Venetians in 1473 to defend the city from the pirates and people who tried to invade. James and I had no idea that Naphlion had a beach so that was a nice surprise to see from the top of the castle. Travel tip – if swimming is not planned make sure to bring your togs along anyway for that possible last minute swim.
Before lunch we stopped at Arvanitia Beach, the beach we viewed from Palamidi Castle, it was quite busy for a Monday. Lunch at To Omorfo Tavernaki restaurant was so good. A nice quaint taverna with the best lamb shoulder I have ever had and good friendly service.
Naphlion is such a pretty village and a place every person who is in the surrounding areas should visit.
When returning to Porto Heli James and I borrowed Trisha’s car and we bought enough food for 8 people. I cooked a delicious meat and potato curry for Trisha and her friends who we sailed along the Aegean Sea with the day before. Dinner for 8 people took a few hours to cook but it was well worth it. Trisha and Ann set up the table out on their marina, it was a lovely setting and a good evening.
Day 5. Wednesday 7th October.
Trisha drove us to Ermoni a small seaside town on the eastern coasts of Peloponnese, in the region of Argolis about 19 minutes drive from Porto Heli. The town has lots of pine trees, restaurants and a 1km promenade. James and I walked around the Bisti piney forest up to Bisti beach for a swim whilst Ann and Trisha had a coffee after the walk. Bisti beach has pebbles but the crystal blue water is gorgeous. It was definitely worth a dip in the ocean.
When we returned back to Porto Heli James and I kayaked along Ververoda Bay just before sunset started then sun-baked at Blue beach and continued to enjoy the stunning sunset. The sunsets at Ververoda Bay are really gorgeous and something I hope the locals appreciate.
Before dinner James and I walked approximately 27 minutes from Trisha and Dimitri’s house to Porto Heli town and purchased our Athens hydrofoil tickets for the following day. An hour or so later we drove to Costa restaurant in Kosta village by the ferry terminal to Spetses and enjoyed another family home cooked cuisine taverna. Costa’s food was delicious traditional Greek food and a nice way to end our journey in Porto Heli with dinner by the sea. It was our last night and ashame we had to leave, we had a fun time with Jame’s family and it was great to meet Jame’s Uncle for the first time.
After dinner we borrowed Trisha’s tiny car for our early morning departure to get to Porto Heli Marina. Although it was just a 10 minutes walk it was not something we could do with all our luggage. This duo team do not travel light! The car remained in the marina car park which is something one could not do anywhere I know.
Day 6. Thursday 8th October.
Our early morning wake up was not too bad but packing a tiny car with lots of bags and luggage was interesting.
Our ferry to Athens was great on the hydrofoil and was approximately 2 hours. Another new journey to continue.
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